Rain lamp cleaning

How to clean a rain lamp.

Bottom basin

Ordinarily the dirtiest part of a rain lamp will be the inside of the bottom basin, by far. No matter how you decide to dump the oil, take care that the lamp switch does not come into contact with any mineral oil, because oil can quickly seep into that electrical part and cause it to spark. That happened to my rain lamp switch.

QUICK METHOD. To dump the oil out of the bottom basin quickly without cleaning that basin, it should be possible to simply tilt the lamp sideways towards some receptacle, hopefully with the lamp unplugged, switch out of the way, and foliage removed. The oil should easily come out of the larger holes of the tray, enough to pour from the lip of the bottom basin. But I suspect that method could be messy.

SLOW METHOD. If time permits and cleaning is desired, I would recommend first removing the lower basin entirely by unscrewing the lower basin from the cage part of the lamp. First prepare a location to place the dripping cage bottom as it comes off, such as on top of a large trash can liner laid on the floor with newspapers on top. Be careful not to let the switch come into contact with any mineral oil. If time permits, wrapping plastic around the switch with absorbant paper towels underneath might be a good idea, too.

Applying the slow method, a method of draining that worked for me was to use the oil funnel for my car oil and a discarded plastic milk jug, all set atop some newspapers, and to pour the basin's oil into the milk jug via the funnel. I then used dry paper towels to get the worst sludge off the basin (it's like mud!), followed by dishwashing liquid and wet paper towels, followed by cleanser and wet paper towels.


The bottom basin and what I used to drain out all of its mineral oil.


The basin, before and after cleaning.

The interior of my bottom basin was permanently stained by decades of dirty oil, but it doesn't really matter since the basin interior is ordinarily entirely hidden from view. I suspect that cleaning the basin interior will affect the cleanliness of the rest of the lamp, though, since the main source of dirt in the lamp is dirty oil being distributed to all parts of the lamp.


Plastic foliage

The plastic foliage in my lamp smelled badly of rancid oil when I received it, but it was easy to clean. My method was to put all the plastic foliage in a Ziploc freezer bag, fill the freezer bag with hot water in the sink, add lemon scented dishwashing liquid and antibacterial dishwashing liquid, close the bag, shake it, let it soak a few minutes, drain it, fill it with hot water again, drain it, and fill with hot water and drain it one more time. By then it actually smelled good. Then I just laid the plastic foliage out on double thickness paper towels until it dried. Since there were some very small fronds that had broken off by the time I received my lamp, I kept the sink stopper in place during all the washing to prevent any plastic foliage from getting into the sink's garbage disposal system when I was pouring water out. Notice how dirty the water in the bag became, which shows how dirty the foliage was.



My successful method of washing and drying all the plastic foliage at once.

The above shaking method could be done just as well with a sealed Tupperware container, but the thought of putting such dirty old mineral oil into food dispensers didn't appeal to me. Letting the foliage soak in a sink or tub might be alright, too, except that tiny plastic leaf fragments could get lost and/or get lodged in a drain or garbage disposal.


Lid underside

The underside of the lid is obviously dark in color, and although it's smooth and doesn't look dirty, the darkness does in fact come from dirty old oil. This became apparent when I cleaned it with a brass cleaner. No matter how much I cleaned, the cloth still came away dirty, and I eventually gave up. I'm not sure if the metal is really brass; it could be just a brass finish or imitation brass. I would guess all the dirt comes from the fumes of the heated mineral oil in the basin immediately underneath the lid.


Brass cleaner applied to the lid underside proves how dirty that area is.

Although the underside of the lid is not normally seen, it can be smelled. The entire top of the lamp can have an odor of rancid mineral oil. I haven't yet been able to completely eradicate the odor, although I believe using the brass cleaner helped.


Spouts

Clogged or partially clogged spouts are easy to clear. When you notice poorly dripping spouts while the lamp is running, you can first mark those spouts with small pieces of tape by the defective spouts. I used black electrical tape, but Scotch tape could be used just as well.


Spouts that are not dripping well can be marked with tape for later cleaning.

Then later, with the lamp turned off, you can then just stick a sewing needle down the holes of the marked spouts, even with the fiber inside. Just rub the needle around inside the spout in a circular motion.


A sewing needle stuck all the way through a spout and rubbed around will easily clear the spout.

The only trouble I had is that I accidentally dropped the needle once while cleaning a spout this way while the lamp was running, and the needle quickly slid through the spout and all the way down to the bottom of the strand, though fortunately it lodged against the pedestal and didn't go through the bottom hole into the bottom basin. It is more dangerous to clear spouts this way while the lamp is running, but the advantage is it will be immediately apparent if the hole was sufficiently cleared enough by observing the ensuing drip pattern. I'd recommend wearing rubber gloves and being sure that the socket connections at the wire nuts are well insulated with electrical tape and not dipping into the oil or touching any metal, to avoid the risk of electrocution.

Another trick I discovered is to shine a light up at the bottom of the top basin so that the light can be clearly seen through the spouts when viewed from above. This can be done easily when the lamp is running, too, though be careful not to let the light source you're using touch the dripping oil on the strands. Any dark holes will then be readily apparent, and it might not even be necessary to mark them before unclogging them with a needle. This also creates sort of a cool psychedelic effect, with the bright points of light blinking off and on as the droplets form and fall away.


Light shining up at the bottom of the spouts makes it easy to see which spouts are dark/clogged.

Immediately after cleaning my rain lamp, I found it useful to initially test the lamp by running it with the bulb removed and lid unscrewed. That way any spouts that are clogged can be easily marked by putting tape alongside them, then later the clogged spouts can be quickly identified and cleaned when the lamp is unplugged, without having to go through the messy bulb removal process and lid unscrewing process. I also found that by watching the top basin while the lamp is running, one can see small bits of debris like metal shavings and tiny dust balls floating in the oil that weren't present or visible before running. Such debris can then be removed by dipping a paper towel into the oil to pull them out so that they don't later clog any spouts.


Note the large metal shaving that landed between the post hole and rim at the bottom of the photo.


Other areas

Other areas I found that were the desirable to clean were the following, in descending order of cleaning importance:

  1. the strands (dried dirty oil, could interfere with rain effect)
  2. the top of the holed tray (dead insects & dirty oil, ugly & smelly)
  3. the upper basin (dirty oil, could clog the spouts)
  4. the light bulb (thick dust, affects the light)
  5. the statue (dust, looks dusty)
  6. the pedestal (dried oil, looks dirty)
  7. the lid (tarnished spots, look distracting)

Paper towels, facial tissue, or toilet paper all work fine for the remaining areas, especially if used with hot water and soap. I was afraid to use anything other than cold water on the statue, though, for fear of damaging the original paint job. I didn't need to remove the fiber for any of the cleaning, although I suppose if it were removed (not worth the trouble!), cleaning would be faster and better. I wiped some dirty oil off the surfaces of the pump and motor, but didn't attempt any special cleaning of the motor. I wouldn't want to risk rusting any metal parts of the lamp by putting parts in water. However, one Old-House-Friends Forum member reports successfully cleaning the entire lamp (except the motor) that way. Other tips from the Old-House-Friends Forum:

I'm told that WD-40 can also be used as a cleaner of metal and not just a lubricant, so that might be a way of avoiding soap and water on rustable metal in the lamp. I used only wet paper towels to clean the thick dust off the light bulb after I removed the bulb, although that simple cleaning operation took the painted lettering off the end of the vintage bulb.


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Created: December 14, 2005
Updated: April 18, 2007